A teardrop-shaped island in the southeast of the Philippines, 500 miles from the capital Manila, Siargao (pronounced shar-gow) feels like Bali might have a few decades ago. Given its smaller size (a population of 200,000, compared to Bali’s four million), Siargao has remained unspoiled, remote, and still relatively under the radar, despite the influx of new infrastructures in recent years.

You’ll likely fall for the island’s pristine white beaches, coconut woodlands, and emerald mangrove forest as soon as you land, as well as the clearest water you’ve ever seen and sensational waves.

But the backdrop is only half of the spectacular picture. Siargao has been enchanting visitors for years because of its welcoming vibe and easy island lifestyle. A stream of cool, independent new hotels and businesses are making the island a shining example of sustainable tourism, and there’s a wealth of activities to keep you busy for days. It’s no surprise Conde Nast Traveler readers voted it the best island in Asia—but it also topped our list as the best island in the world. Here’s how to plan a trip to the island—and what to do once you’re there.